I´ve finally made some reservations for the future. I imagined a picture of myself standing on the corner of Coronel Diaz and Sante Fe next Wednesday night, pulling my bag, and with nowhere to go.
Marcia came to the rescue, and arranged transportation to Bariloche and a hotel room for the first three nights. She did not make my car rental reservation, as she indicated it would be much less expensive if I did it after I arrived.
I´m looking forward to the trip as a change of venue will also change the noise level, the temperature and the scenery. I could have flown, but opted for the first class bus, complete with full "cama" or bed, toilets, TV, meals and a bar. The trip takes approximately 20 hours across almost all of Argentina from Buenos Aires, Southwest to Bariloche in the Andes, near Chile.
I shall report on whether or not this was a good decision after I arrive in Bariloche.
Friday, January 26, 2007
LINKS
I have linked my posts to my brother´s blog, At the bottom of each post, if you click on link, it will bring up a page that lists Ward´s World. Click on it, and it should take you to his Blog. His memory is much more accurate than mine, (whose isn´t?) and you could get a different perspective on their visit, plus many more details. (After re-reading the most recent posts, you may not want any more details.) Additionally, he can post pictures, which I can´t until I get home.
FUN WITH WARD AND JANE
It´s hard to believe that it´s already January 26, I only have a few more days in Buenos Aires, and that my last posting was more 10 days ago. But WHAT a ten days.
WARD AND JANE
Ward and Jane arrived a little later than scheduled, which was around 9:30AM on the morning of the 15th after an overnight flight that took them from Atlanta via Lima, Peru. As I recall, we mostly relaxed most of the rest of that day, after I showed them the neighborhood, restaurants, parks and shopping.
On the following day, we took the ill-fated City Tour, by bus. The bus was to pick us up at the Hotel Wilton, so we took the subway to the closest stop and waited at the hotel. The bus was more than a half hour late, and then seemed to drive us around aimlessly. The guide finally started some narrative, but her English was not good, and I couldn´t understand her. They had three stops scheduled. At the second one which was the soccer stadium, which I´m sure was of interest to fans, but in a seedy part of town, we opted out, flagged a cab and returned home, having learned little or nothing from the experience.
The next day, we went to Gallieries Pacifica on Florida Street for some window shopping, and found a travel Agency called MaWa, and a helpful agent named Marcia. She arranged trips for us to an Estancia, and to a Tango dinner event later on in the week.
THE ESTANCIA
Estancia means "station". It also means "parking". That´s what they call ranches hereabouts, and the ranches raise the cattle that make up the wonderful steaks served in the country. After an hour´s ride in yet another bus, we arrived at the Don Silvia Estancia. It was a pretty place and quite compared to downtown. However, the three of us being from rural areas were already familiar with horses and cows and other ranch critters, so it held little interest for us. Many more buses and cars had arrived, and most of the crowd was very interested in the demonstration of milking the cow, and a good majority rode the horses in groups of a dozen or so, or rode in a horse drawn carriage.
We were beginning to wonder whatever we would do until the bus left at 4PM; when the dinner bell rang. We were assigned to table number 36, and their must have been at least 150 people, or more in the dining room.
The brought salads and bread and wine, and then started bringing trays of various kinds of meats and you could choose which piece and how many pieces you wanted. Things were starting to get interesting. Ward and I drank most of the bottle of Argentinian wine, as Jane perhaps felt it was a little early. We ordered another bottle of wine, which was promptly delivered, and we finished it off with yet more meat. Then a third, and more meat.
Most of the time we were eating, there were two entertainers dancing and doing various routines on the stage, most of which seemed not extraordinary to me.....but as their various costume changes and acts progressed, they demonstrated many talents and were very entertaining.
Finally, the MC, who was a large man with a busy mustache, goucho pants and high boots, ask for people to come up to the stage and sing a song representing their country. A little Asian lady got up and sang a little Asian song and everybody clapped.
He asked for more countries, by name, but nobody volunteered. Finally, he asked for the United States, and of course we (our table and the next) volunteered Ward, who by that time had consumed the lion´s share of the three bottles of wine. He got up, ambled to the stage, using his cane, and belted out one stanza of "American the Beautiful". The crowd went wild--well, actually not wild, but clapped loudly at his performance as he left the stage.
My camera`s battery had just died, but I made sure Ward´s was within reach. I reached for it and aimed, but nothing happened. It wasn´t on, and I didn´t know how to turn it on. I gave it to Jane, and she did not know how to turn it on, so we have no pictural evidence of my brother representing the United States of America before a crowd of foreigners in the Argentinian countryside. You´ll just have to take my word for it.
EVITA
Jane´s list of "Things To Do" directed us the the Evita Peron Museum, a nice walk from my apartment, and past the Botanical Gardens. We finally came upon a restaurant and on a sign outside, it said "Museum". On finishing our tour of the Museum, we found that we had come in the back entrance, as we exited from the real entrance. I´m not big on museums; however, I was impressed with two floors of Evita memorabilia, and translations to English of all of the important exhibits. They were very well done, interesting and complete.
We then took a cab to the Recoleta Cemetary in the heart of Recoleta, which is a very good district. Jane bought a single red rose from a vendor, and we went in search of her tomb. I guess that´s what you call it. The cemetary is totally surrounded by a high brick wall, with only one entry and exit point, and is like a "City of the Dead" arranged in streets. All of the tombs or shrines, if you prefer, are above ground. There are no extraordinery marking on Evita Duartes shrine, and we had a little trouble finding it. When we did, there was a small crowd, which eventually died away, and Jane placed her rose in the wrought iron door, while Ward and I took pictures.
Enough of death and musuems! We walked to Avenue Vincente Lopez on the opposite side of the cemetary where there are many shops and restaurants, and stopped for refreshments at an outdoor cafe.
URUGUAY
Our travel agent arranged a day trip for us to Colonia, Uruguay. We took a cab to the North Dock, and went through customs and immigration and boarded the large hydrofoil for the trip, which took about an hour to cross the River Plata, which will give you an idea of the size of this river. The slow boat takes three hours to cross it. I was disappointed that there was no deck so that I could let the breeze blow through my hair, but that´s the way hydrofoils are constructed. They did serve sandwiches and soft drinks. No cerveza.
Colonia is a pleasantly small city West of Montevideo perhaps 100 miles. It has an "old town" which is the major attraction, and was a fun place to visit. Eventually, we tired of walking, and rented a golf cart to continue our sight seeing.
TANGO
Sadly, Jane took ill on the day we were scheduled for the Tango evening entertainment, and having spent five hours in the emergency room of a German Hospital, we were to spent to do anything. Ward called and cancelled our reservations, and I subsequently checked with Marcia, and she said they would only refund half of the amount.
Jane was diagnosed with a bacterial disorder, was prescribed antibotics, and returned to the apartment to rest for the next couple of days. Ward and Jane then returned to the USA, as scheduled, except that all of their flights were three hours late.
It was great that they could visit, and it immensely improved the quality of my visit, as some of these things I would not have persued on my own.
WARD AND JANE
Ward and Jane arrived a little later than scheduled, which was around 9:30AM on the morning of the 15th after an overnight flight that took them from Atlanta via Lima, Peru. As I recall, we mostly relaxed most of the rest of that day, after I showed them the neighborhood, restaurants, parks and shopping.
On the following day, we took the ill-fated City Tour, by bus. The bus was to pick us up at the Hotel Wilton, so we took the subway to the closest stop and waited at the hotel. The bus was more than a half hour late, and then seemed to drive us around aimlessly. The guide finally started some narrative, but her English was not good, and I couldn´t understand her. They had three stops scheduled. At the second one which was the soccer stadium, which I´m sure was of interest to fans, but in a seedy part of town, we opted out, flagged a cab and returned home, having learned little or nothing from the experience.
The next day, we went to Gallieries Pacifica on Florida Street for some window shopping, and found a travel Agency called MaWa, and a helpful agent named Marcia. She arranged trips for us to an Estancia, and to a Tango dinner event later on in the week.
THE ESTANCIA
Estancia means "station". It also means "parking". That´s what they call ranches hereabouts, and the ranches raise the cattle that make up the wonderful steaks served in the country. After an hour´s ride in yet another bus, we arrived at the Don Silvia Estancia. It was a pretty place and quite compared to downtown. However, the three of us being from rural areas were already familiar with horses and cows and other ranch critters, so it held little interest for us. Many more buses and cars had arrived, and most of the crowd was very interested in the demonstration of milking the cow, and a good majority rode the horses in groups of a dozen or so, or rode in a horse drawn carriage.
We were beginning to wonder whatever we would do until the bus left at 4PM; when the dinner bell rang. We were assigned to table number 36, and their must have been at least 150 people, or more in the dining room.
The brought salads and bread and wine, and then started bringing trays of various kinds of meats and you could choose which piece and how many pieces you wanted. Things were starting to get interesting. Ward and I drank most of the bottle of Argentinian wine, as Jane perhaps felt it was a little early. We ordered another bottle of wine, which was promptly delivered, and we finished it off with yet more meat. Then a third, and more meat.
Most of the time we were eating, there were two entertainers dancing and doing various routines on the stage, most of which seemed not extraordinary to me.....but as their various costume changes and acts progressed, they demonstrated many talents and were very entertaining.
Finally, the MC, who was a large man with a busy mustache, goucho pants and high boots, ask for people to come up to the stage and sing a song representing their country. A little Asian lady got up and sang a little Asian song and everybody clapped.
He asked for more countries, by name, but nobody volunteered. Finally, he asked for the United States, and of course we (our table and the next) volunteered Ward, who by that time had consumed the lion´s share of the three bottles of wine. He got up, ambled to the stage, using his cane, and belted out one stanza of "American the Beautiful". The crowd went wild--well, actually not wild, but clapped loudly at his performance as he left the stage.
My camera`s battery had just died, but I made sure Ward´s was within reach. I reached for it and aimed, but nothing happened. It wasn´t on, and I didn´t know how to turn it on. I gave it to Jane, and she did not know how to turn it on, so we have no pictural evidence of my brother representing the United States of America before a crowd of foreigners in the Argentinian countryside. You´ll just have to take my word for it.
EVITA
Jane´s list of "Things To Do" directed us the the Evita Peron Museum, a nice walk from my apartment, and past the Botanical Gardens. We finally came upon a restaurant and on a sign outside, it said "Museum". On finishing our tour of the Museum, we found that we had come in the back entrance, as we exited from the real entrance. I´m not big on museums; however, I was impressed with two floors of Evita memorabilia, and translations to English of all of the important exhibits. They were very well done, interesting and complete.
We then took a cab to the Recoleta Cemetary in the heart of Recoleta, which is a very good district. Jane bought a single red rose from a vendor, and we went in search of her tomb. I guess that´s what you call it. The cemetary is totally surrounded by a high brick wall, with only one entry and exit point, and is like a "City of the Dead" arranged in streets. All of the tombs or shrines, if you prefer, are above ground. There are no extraordinery marking on Evita Duartes shrine, and we had a little trouble finding it. When we did, there was a small crowd, which eventually died away, and Jane placed her rose in the wrought iron door, while Ward and I took pictures.
Enough of death and musuems! We walked to Avenue Vincente Lopez on the opposite side of the cemetary where there are many shops and restaurants, and stopped for refreshments at an outdoor cafe.
URUGUAY
Our travel agent arranged a day trip for us to Colonia, Uruguay. We took a cab to the North Dock, and went through customs and immigration and boarded the large hydrofoil for the trip, which took about an hour to cross the River Plata, which will give you an idea of the size of this river. The slow boat takes three hours to cross it. I was disappointed that there was no deck so that I could let the breeze blow through my hair, but that´s the way hydrofoils are constructed. They did serve sandwiches and soft drinks. No cerveza.
Colonia is a pleasantly small city West of Montevideo perhaps 100 miles. It has an "old town" which is the major attraction, and was a fun place to visit. Eventually, we tired of walking, and rented a golf cart to continue our sight seeing.
TANGO
Sadly, Jane took ill on the day we were scheduled for the Tango evening entertainment, and having spent five hours in the emergency room of a German Hospital, we were to spent to do anything. Ward called and cancelled our reservations, and I subsequently checked with Marcia, and she said they would only refund half of the amount.
Jane was diagnosed with a bacterial disorder, was prescribed antibotics, and returned to the apartment to rest for the next couple of days. Ward and Jane then returned to the USA, as scheduled, except that all of their flights were three hours late.
It was great that they could visit, and it immensely improved the quality of my visit, as some of these things I would not have persued on my own.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
SATURDAY-SUNDAY
I´ll just post a quick one here, as my brother Ward, and sister-in-law Jane from Huntsville, Alabama will be joining me starting tomorrow. They are to arrive at 7:30AM after an overnight trip.
SERENDIPITOUS SATURDAY
In the evening, I headed for the park, this time, the Botanical Gardens, which is probably a mile or so away. On arriving at the park, I noticed a pretty good crowd of people streaming into the park. Oblivious, as usual, I joined the crowd. It was dusk, and pretty cool for mid-summer. I followed the crowd deep into the park, and came to a place where everyone was sitting on the grass. So I sat on the grass. After about 10 minutes, the music started, and it was pretty good. It was a male vocalist, accompanied by various strings.
Later, doing my research, I found that I had happened on a performance of El Yotivenco "the band founded by actor/singer Rodrigo de la Serna, which recreates “tangos lunfardos”.
SUNDAY
Another day, another park. This time the Southwest quarter of connected parks and pedestrian plazas
which stretches for miles in all directions and bears many different names. I´ve never seen so many people enjoying the outdoors, yet it didn´t seem crowded. It´s a beautiful place, and I wish I could post pictures of it. I walked past the zoo, which had a waiting line, into the park, through the Rose Garden and around one of six lakes. The Rose Garden is a park within a park, with restricted access. It´s free, but no pets, no bicycles, no futbol, etc. A very civilized park!
I know that Jane has a laundry list of things for us to do while they are here. I´m looking forward to it, especially a boat trip to Montevideo, Uraguay. More later.
SERENDIPITOUS SATURDAY
In the evening, I headed for the park, this time, the Botanical Gardens, which is probably a mile or so away. On arriving at the park, I noticed a pretty good crowd of people streaming into the park. Oblivious, as usual, I joined the crowd. It was dusk, and pretty cool for mid-summer. I followed the crowd deep into the park, and came to a place where everyone was sitting on the grass. So I sat on the grass. After about 10 minutes, the music started, and it was pretty good. It was a male vocalist, accompanied by various strings.
Later, doing my research, I found that I had happened on a performance of El Yotivenco "the band founded by actor/singer Rodrigo de la Serna, which recreates “tangos lunfardos”.
SUNDAY
Another day, another park. This time the Southwest quarter of connected parks and pedestrian plazas
which stretches for miles in all directions and bears many different names. I´ve never seen so many people enjoying the outdoors, yet it didn´t seem crowded. It´s a beautiful place, and I wish I could post pictures of it. I walked past the zoo, which had a waiting line, into the park, through the Rose Garden and around one of six lakes. The Rose Garden is a park within a park, with restricted access. It´s free, but no pets, no bicycles, no futbol, etc. A very civilized park!
I know that Jane has a laundry list of things for us to do while they are here. I´m looking forward to it, especially a boat trip to Montevideo, Uraguay. More later.
Friday, January 12, 2007
MAPS PARKS SUBT
mThe Grandma Gene
My maternal grandma, Francis Mills Anderson McWilliams had no sense of direction. When she left her house, she was lost. At first, I thought the "Grandma Gene" had kicked in, either that or Alzheimers. I´d look at the map, and head out only to find several blocks that I was going the wrong direction. Soon, I started checking the map at every intersection, and, sure enough, I was going in the wrong direction. (Not that I had anyplace important to go or any time that I had to be there....but it was an irritant.)
After two days of this, I finally noticed that the map I have has the direction North at the bottom. It´s upside-down, and if you turn it right-side up, you can´t read the street names.
Well, at least the mystery is solved, but I´m still totally screwed up as to directions. The nice thing is, you don´t really have to worry about it. If you get lost or tired, just hail a taxi. Just don´t forget your address!!
Sunday in the Park
I know you´ll think I´m nuts, but I love the subway, and I love parks. You may not find it suprising, therefore, that I would locate a park or other point of interest on my map, and then take the subway to the closest stop.
If I had to ride the subway every day, or commute via subway, I´m sure I´d learn to hate it. Ever since my first subway adventure in Paris, clost to 35 years ago, I´ve ridden subways in London, Munich, Madrid, and anywhere else that had one....except for New York City.
The subway here cost ART .70, the equivalent of which is $.23. There are only five lines, but one could cover the greater part of the city. As I recall, when I first rode Metro in Paris some 35 years ago, the cost was $.35.
Back to the subject at hand--I had chosen Plaza San Martin as my destination, and hopped on the subway at the Bulnes station, conveniently located one block from my apartment and got off at the last stop downtown called Cathredral. Then I started walking, and soon found that I was headed, not for the Plaza, but for the docks. I walked about 20 blocks along the docks most of which is covered with brick or cobblestone, and it was ovbious that the locals used it to stroll for relaxation, some few joggers. There was the Hilton Hotel and there were restaurants galore, among them I sited such familiar sites as TGI Fridays and Hooters. Eschewing American eateries, I stopped at the stand selling Empanadas, and order two carne, plus a Sprite Lite. The counter guy came back and said something to the effect that they were out of carne, how about tuna....I think. So I said OK, and ate two what I think were tuna Empanadas. I knew from previous experience that one wouldn´t be enough. They´re good, but small, costing about $.50 each.
Having sated and slaked, I continued in what I thought was the direction to my destination; stopping to ask a uniformed person if I was going the right direction. She turned out to be a pretty young girl, which you couldn´t tell because of her uniform and hat. She said it was too far, and I should take a cab. She finally confirmed the direction, and I took off walking.
Plaza San Martin & Florida Street
I entered from Rojo Street, and before me was a hugh park full of trees and people and kids and dogs, mostly just relaxing or playing. After walking through the park for a while, I spied a cafe on Maipu street, and decided that my thirst needed more slaking. I ordered a Cervezca Bolon. Bolon is not a brand of beer, but rather a measure. An Imperial is big, a bolon is a large cup, a Chopp is a beer mug, and there one thing I haven´t found out the name for. It´s a BIG bottle of beer, usually split between two people. Got to learn the name of that one.
Continuing around the perimeter of the park, I came upon Florida Streeet, well known for it´s shopping and shops. It is a pedestrian only avenue that stretches for 14 blocks, if you count the side streets. They have absolutely everything.
I window shopped most of Florida Street, and saw so many interesting things to buy, that I almost succumbed to the temptation to buy gifts for people. Luckily, that passed after a few more blocks. Maybe when Ward and Jane get here, we´ll go back there and I´ll be tempted again. There were nice little sidewalk cafes strewn along the wide walkway, and I did succumb to once again slaking my thirst.
I walked back to the Green Line, pushed my ticket through the gate, got on the subway, and was home again in no time at all.
My maternal grandma, Francis Mills Anderson McWilliams had no sense of direction. When she left her house, she was lost. At first, I thought the "Grandma Gene" had kicked in, either that or Alzheimers. I´d look at the map, and head out only to find several blocks that I was going the wrong direction. Soon, I started checking the map at every intersection, and, sure enough, I was going in the wrong direction. (Not that I had anyplace important to go or any time that I had to be there....but it was an irritant.)
After two days of this, I finally noticed that the map I have has the direction North at the bottom. It´s upside-down, and if you turn it right-side up, you can´t read the street names.
Well, at least the mystery is solved, but I´m still totally screwed up as to directions. The nice thing is, you don´t really have to worry about it. If you get lost or tired, just hail a taxi. Just don´t forget your address!!
Sunday in the Park
I know you´ll think I´m nuts, but I love the subway, and I love parks. You may not find it suprising, therefore, that I would locate a park or other point of interest on my map, and then take the subway to the closest stop.
If I had to ride the subway every day, or commute via subway, I´m sure I´d learn to hate it. Ever since my first subway adventure in Paris, clost to 35 years ago, I´ve ridden subways in London, Munich, Madrid, and anywhere else that had one....except for New York City.
The subway here cost ART .70, the equivalent of which is $.23. There are only five lines, but one could cover the greater part of the city. As I recall, when I first rode Metro in Paris some 35 years ago, the cost was $.35.
Back to the subject at hand--I had chosen Plaza San Martin as my destination, and hopped on the subway at the Bulnes station, conveniently located one block from my apartment and got off at the last stop downtown called Cathredral. Then I started walking, and soon found that I was headed, not for the Plaza, but for the docks. I walked about 20 blocks along the docks most of which is covered with brick or cobblestone, and it was ovbious that the locals used it to stroll for relaxation, some few joggers. There was the Hilton Hotel and there were restaurants galore, among them I sited such familiar sites as TGI Fridays and Hooters. Eschewing American eateries, I stopped at the stand selling Empanadas, and order two carne, plus a Sprite Lite. The counter guy came back and said something to the effect that they were out of carne, how about tuna....I think. So I said OK, and ate two what I think were tuna Empanadas. I knew from previous experience that one wouldn´t be enough. They´re good, but small, costing about $.50 each.
Having sated and slaked, I continued in what I thought was the direction to my destination; stopping to ask a uniformed person if I was going the right direction. She turned out to be a pretty young girl, which you couldn´t tell because of her uniform and hat. She said it was too far, and I should take a cab. She finally confirmed the direction, and I took off walking.
Plaza San Martin & Florida Street
I entered from Rojo Street, and before me was a hugh park full of trees and people and kids and dogs, mostly just relaxing or playing. After walking through the park for a while, I spied a cafe on Maipu street, and decided that my thirst needed more slaking. I ordered a Cervezca Bolon. Bolon is not a brand of beer, but rather a measure. An Imperial is big, a bolon is a large cup, a Chopp is a beer mug, and there one thing I haven´t found out the name for. It´s a BIG bottle of beer, usually split between two people. Got to learn the name of that one.
Continuing around the perimeter of the park, I came upon Florida Streeet, well known for it´s shopping and shops. It is a pedestrian only avenue that stretches for 14 blocks, if you count the side streets. They have absolutely everything.
I window shopped most of Florida Street, and saw so many interesting things to buy, that I almost succumbed to the temptation to buy gifts for people. Luckily, that passed after a few more blocks. Maybe when Ward and Jane get here, we´ll go back there and I´ll be tempted again. There were nice little sidewalk cafes strewn along the wide walkway, and I did succumb to once again slaking my thirst.
I walked back to the Green Line, pushed my ticket through the gate, got on the subway, and was home again in no time at all.
Sunday, January 7, 2007
BUENOS AIRES
I´ll try to just give you some highlights now. The owner and the carrier, Fibertel, are coming to my apartment tomorrow morning to see if they can fix the internet service. The owner´s daughter, Eva, who speaks English came over with her bofriend on Saturday night at 10pm, and she made the appointment for Monday. So maybe NEXT week, I can catch this up from the apartment.
New´s Years Eve was uneventful. I went to some of my haunts along the Via Argentia early, however, like in the States, everybody goes to private parties. I ended up at the Casino, across the street from the apartment, and watched the Denver Bronco´s get beat, but I forgot by whom. Then, early to bed.
The taxi showed up right on time and took me to Toucomen Airport. The Copa flight left right on time, and arrived 7 hours later and 15 minutes early. No problem with immigration, and customs waved me through without checking my bag. (Probably because I looked like such a tired, hot, old harmless man.)
It was 8:30 at night, and it was HOT. I brought a sports coat with me so I´d have it for the wedding in March, and the only way I carry it is to wear it. The remis took me directly to the apartment, and then I had to wait for a half hour, as I was early. Not to worry, the apartment is over a cafe called Ristretto, and, at first, I sat on the patio outside. Then the waiter told me to come inside to the airconditioning; which I did, and had a beer.
Fast forward to Friday.....the weather changed drastically for the better. It was a really beautiful day with the high in the low 70´s, and in the evening, with a breeze, even a little cool.
I´ve checked out the immediate neighborhood, walking, for maybe as much as two miles or more in each direction.
A bottle of Wine at the grocery store can be bought for as little as ART 2.76, or $.90US. I paid a little more than that! A grilled ham and cheese is $3.00.
More of this later. I think I´ll take the subway, and see if I can find my way to San Martin Plaza. It doesn´t get dark here until about 8:30, so plenty of time.
jw
New´s Years Eve was uneventful. I went to some of my haunts along the Via Argentia early, however, like in the States, everybody goes to private parties. I ended up at the Casino, across the street from the apartment, and watched the Denver Bronco´s get beat, but I forgot by whom. Then, early to bed.
The taxi showed up right on time and took me to Toucomen Airport. The Copa flight left right on time, and arrived 7 hours later and 15 minutes early. No problem with immigration, and customs waved me through without checking my bag. (Probably because I looked like such a tired, hot, old harmless man.)
It was 8:30 at night, and it was HOT. I brought a sports coat with me so I´d have it for the wedding in March, and the only way I carry it is to wear it. The remis took me directly to the apartment, and then I had to wait for a half hour, as I was early. Not to worry, the apartment is over a cafe called Ristretto, and, at first, I sat on the patio outside. Then the waiter told me to come inside to the airconditioning; which I did, and had a beer.
Fast forward to Friday.....the weather changed drastically for the better. It was a really beautiful day with the high in the low 70´s, and in the evening, with a breeze, even a little cool.
I´ve checked out the immediate neighborhood, walking, for maybe as much as two miles or more in each direction.
A bottle of Wine at the grocery store can be bought for as little as ART 2.76, or $.90US. I paid a little more than that! A grilled ham and cheese is $3.00.
More of this later. I think I´ll take the subway, and see if I can find my way to San Martin Plaza. It doesn´t get dark here until about 8:30, so plenty of time.
jw
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